2012 La Serenne

Syrah La Serenne’s character in 2012 reinforces the loose axiom: cooler sites produce their finest wines in warm vintages; think of Mosel Rieslings or Cote Rotie Syrahs, both cooler than other nearby appellations, and how they shine in warm vintages. So too with the higher altitude, cooler-temperature Boushey Vineyard, for 13 vintages the sole source for La Serenne. The vineyard made great use of the warm late July and August, yielding small berries with thick skins, providing extraordinary density and richness. Supple and fleshy are hallmarks of this vineyard in any vintage, butin 2012 pack on more textural breadth, and add more of Syrah’s wildness, a meaty, spicy, earthy nuance. It’s inky black, with dark plums, creamy black fruits, generous smoke and anise, and yet it still retains its cool site vitality. Don’t be deceived by its supple tannins and juicy approachability: this is one that will live a long life in the cellar.